Which will cost you more: Having a low credit score or getting charged with Driving While Drunk?
If you’re thinking like an insurance company, you’re going to say the low credit score is worse than the DWI. And you’re going to charge your drivers higher premiums for it.
Is that reasonable? I don’t know about you, but I’d rather be a passenger in a car with a driver who had a low score than with an intoxicated driver.
Look at this comparison of auto insurance costs for an average new insurance customer*:
Low Credit Score: $1,521 insurance premium
High Credit Score but with a DWI: $1,097 insurance premium
The person with a low credit score pays $424 more than the person with the DWI.
Keep in mind that you can have a low score simply by carrying too much credit — even if all your payments are made on time.
I have seen credit reports for physicians, dentists, and attorneys who had low scores due to carrying a lot of credit. These professionals had high incomes and could easily afford their credit. They made all payments as agreed. But, according to statistics, they have higher insurance premiums than the person driving drunk!
Does this make sense to you? I’d love to hear what you think.
In the meantime, it cannot be overstated how important it is to have a good credit score. A low score will cost you more in every financial arena, from buying a home to insurance premiums to credit card rates.
If your score is below 740, you will be wise to examine your report to determine how you can improve it and save yourself a bundle of money.
*Thanks to Chad Kusner, president of Credit Repair Resources, Inc. for the statistics.
Some of my book readers have been asking me if they should close out their extra credit cards. They may have a Visa, MasterCard, Sears, Target, Macys, Chevron, and Walmart card. They do not need all of those cards, because Visa and MasterCard will handle it all.
But my answer is NO and here’s why.
By closing the cards you already have open, you risk losing credit points.
You gain points for having a long history of credit. By closing old cards, you could lower your average length of credit.
You gain points for using a small portion of your available credit. This is calculated in two ways:
1) A low balance-to-limit ratio on an individual card.
2) A low balance-to-available credit ratio on all your cards.
If you close out all your store cards that you don’t need, you could hurt your score per #2 above. Your balance-to-available credit ratio could go up (depending on your remaining credit).
So, in general, if you have extra cards you don’t need, let them set open and unused. That way, you won’t risk losing points.
What If You Only Have Three Credit Cards?
If you only have two or three credit cards, that is enough and you do not need to seek out more. If you have two credit cards, plus one other trade line on your credit report, such as an auto loan or student loan, then that’s perfect. You have three accounts showing on your credit report, which is what you want for a conventional mortgage loan.
Best practice for a high credit score is to keep your balance-to-limit ratio low on all your credit cards. I suggest keeping it at 30% or less. Never go over 50%, because that will dock points. And never, ever max out your cards!
Thank you for reading this post. Feel free to pass it on to others via social media, because a lot of folks are using too much credit without realizing it is hurting their scores.
Attention Home Buyers! Do not expect your loan to close smoothly if you make one of these money moves during your loan process (or right before your loan process). In fact, it could actually cause your approval to slip and fall into a denial.
“Can they do that? I have my approval in writing?” you may ask.
Absolutely. The lender can withdraw your loan approval — even after giving you a written commitment — if they perceive that you have become a greater credit risk.
Seven Mistakes to Avoid
1) Don’t apply for new credit of any kind.
2) Don’t pay off collections or charge-offs during the loan process.
3) Don’t close credit accounts, not even old ones you haven’t used in a long time.
4) Don’t increase the balance on your credit cards, which also means don’t buy furniture, appliances, or anything else for your upcoming new home until after closing.
5) Don’t consolidate your debt onto one or two cards.
6) Don’t co-sign on a loan for anyone.
7) Don’t change your name during the loan process.
If you need clarification about any of the seven, let me know. But please, take this advice as “set in stone” unless your loan officer has specifically given you an exception, because the last thing you need is more stress during your loan closing.
You’re buying a house. Your purchase contract says the seller is giving you $7,000 credit toward closing costs. But your total closing costs are only $6,000. What happens to that extra grand?
Can you get the cash at closing? That would sure come in handy, right?
Sad to say, no. The Buyer cannot receive any cash from the Seller.
Some loan officers have let the extra cash stay with the Seller. But how is that fair? Part of your contractual agreement for buying the house for a certain dollar amount was that you would receive $7K.
Can you then reduce the price of the house by $1,000? Not really, because at this point in the process, it isn’t practical. You would surely close late, miss your interest rate lock and moving date. Plus, the appraisal report would need to be amended and new disclosures would be sent. It would create a nightmare in the 11th hour.
The easiest, most practical way to use that extra grand without delaying your loan is for the lender to apply it to your principal balance.
This means that at closing, your loan will be $1,000 less than originally planned. You have instant extra equity in your home, which is great. If you have a conventional loan with mortgage insurance, you are that much closer to having 20 percent equity and getting rid of the monthly MI fee.
If your loan is a fixed rate, the lower loan balance will not change your monthly payment. But, it will change how much you owe. Depending on your loan size and payment, it could cut off a month (more or less) of your term.
Either way, having the Seller pay $1,000 of your mortgage for you is a positive thing!
Each title company has their own set of fees. Some charge one flat fee. Others add a couple junk fees. Some pile on a stack of fees that may add up to an extra $300 to $700.
The ones who charge multiple fees say, “We like to break it down for the buyer, so you know where everything goes.”
That sounds fine, but when the total of the break-down is significantly more than the flat-fee company, something is fishy.
And, there shouldn’t be double-charges. Such as a messenger fee and an overnight fee. Both of those fees are to transport the signed docs back to the lender. Which are you using, a messenger or FedEx overnight? And why are you charging $75 when Fedex overnight by 10:30 am (2 lbs) is $28.05? 3 lbs is $31.40.
Can You Object to Title Overcharges and Junk Fees?
You can always object to title fees, but if you’re far into the loan process or almost at closing, you have no leverage and will likely have no success. They will say no, and then what? It’s too late to start over with another title company.
The best solution is to know from the start which title company you want to use. That way, you write it in on your purchase offer.
The Law and the Seller
Federal lending law states that the choice of title company belongs to the Buyer. However, when a listing agent places the home on the Multiple Listing Service, he/she includes the legal description of the property, and they get that from the title company. Thus, the listing agent chooses a title company right from the start.
No actual work has yet been done by that title company, so at this point, it is no problem to switch companies. There is no reason you can’t say, “I’d like to use Y Title,” even though the listing shows X Title. Truly, it’s no problem.
How Do You Find Title Company Fees?
Use Google to search for your title company + zip code. Some companies have a fee calculator on their site you can use. For the others, call and ask. You don’t need a written quote. The title agent can provide the quote over the phone in just a few minutes.
Personally, I prefer to use the same company for both title and escrow settlement. This is because (1) many offer a 10 percent discount for doing so, (2) you avoid the sub-escrow fee, (3) avoid expensive little independent escrow companies–which in California can be double what the national title-and-escrow companies charge, and (4) possibly save time at closing.
If you are in a state where an attorney is used for settlement closing, then the above doesn’t apply to you. But do take the trouble to find a good and reasonably priced attorney.
When Good Folks Ask Me About their Closing Costs
I appreciate where people are coming from when they email me a list of their closing costs and ask, “Am I getting ripped off?” However, I cannot answer this question without seeing the actual Closing Disclosure. I don’t know the price of the home, their state and zip code (which affects the title cost), or what fees they might not have noticed hiding in a different section, or if the seller or lender are providing a credit. When I do a review, I spend time ahead of our consultation comparing local title fees for their exact situation, and this takes time out of my day. This is why I charge for my service. It’s not that I’m trying to be greedy, but a review-and-consult takes a good hour. If I do that for four people, that’s four hours of my day, so you get the idea.
I encourage you to do your research ahead of shopping for a house. That way, you will be empowered with knowledge and make a good choice for a title company right from the start.
Some Realtors say not to “rock the boat” and let the Seller choose the title company. In a super-competitive market where multiple offers are coming in, there’s some wisdom in that. If you’re bidding $25,000 over asking price, why worry about paying an extra $500 or even $1,000 for title? Your objective is to beat out five other buyers and get the house.
Thank you for reading. Remember, I am state licensed in California and Washington. (NMLS 1284134) I am a mortgage broker, so I am legally bound to find you the lowest interest rate, best pricing, and best loan program I have from my list of 50+ wholesale lenders. ApplyHere
Here is the newest (and accurate) information about credit inquiries.
A credit inquiry is when a company pulls your credit report when you make an application for credit.
The last thing you want is for your credit score to go down while you’re shopping for a home loan. Here’s what you need to know:
- For lenders using FICO 04, you have 30 days to shop for a mortgage, automobile, or student loan without having a penalty to your credit. No matter how many credit pulls you have in that time period, it will count as only one credit pull. (This is pretty much all mortgage lenders.)
- For lenders using FICO 8 and 9, you have 45 days. But this is virtually no mortgage lenders, so in reality, it only applies to automobile loans and student loans. (Ask if they are using FICO 4 or FICO 8 or 9 to be sure of the 45 day timeline as opposed to 30 days.)
- For credit cards, store cards, or lines of credit, there is no grace period. Every credit pull counts separately, and is subject to lowering your credit score.
If you need a credit card, don’t worry about the minor hit to your score, because establishing credit is part of the process.
If you already have three lines of credit and will be buying a home soon, avoid opening any new credit. Believe me, a 10 percent discount on merchandise is not worth taking a higher interest rate on your $200,000 home loan because your score dropped. Don’t risk it!
And remember, NEVER NEVER take out an automobile loan, finance a computer, appliances, or furniture, or open any other new credit six months before applying for a mortgage loan. You don’t want to risk lowering your credit score right when you’re trying to get a low rate for your home.
As of today, no tax liens should be posted on credit reports. This will help boost credit scores for those people who were affected.
However, this does NOT mean that you get to wiggle out of paying your taxes. If you owed money to the IRS or to state taxes, then you still owe that money. The best way to handle it is to contact the tax representative and work out a payment plan. If you can make a lump sum payment, you can expect to pay less than if you need a monthly pay plan.
Be sure to get your agreement in writing.
Also, when you apply for a home loan, even though the tax lien will not show up on your credit report, the lender will still find it. LexisNexis is providing a service to banks and other mortgage lenders that provides information about pubic records such as tax liens.
Enjoy your higher credit score, but take care of the taxes you owe.
Please share this post with others who need this information: Facebook, etc. Thank you for helping get this important news out.
“My credit report shows several negative accounts that I need to dispute. Can I include them all in one letter?”
This is a common question, and I go into detail about how the professional credit repair specialists handle it in Repair Your Credit Like the Pros. But let’s talk about common sense.
If your credit is mixed up with another person’s credit, such as your name is Charles Moon, Jr. and Charles Moon Sr.’s credit is showing up on your report, then you should include all of Sr.’s credit accounts that do not belong to you in one letter. Also include two pieces of ID showing you are Jr.
If you were in the hospital getting an appendectomy and some of the bills went into collections because your insurance company messed up, then include all of those collection accounts in one letter, because they are all related to one event.
So, if the erroneous negative accounts are all related, include them in one letter — and if possible, send verification along with it.
On the other hand, if your report shows a collection account from Comcast dated 2013, and a collection account from Sears dated 2016, then it’s clear that those two accounts are not related to one another. Therefore, you must dispute them separately. For each, explain why it is incorrect and request that it be removed from your credit report. You can use a handy Credit Investigation Request Form that goes with the book if you like. It’s a good idea to hand write a short explanation in the white space. Or, if more appropriate, you can use a letter.
Some people have asked me what I think about the 609 template letters. I know a lot of people use them, and that’s one problem. They are over-used. Another problem is that they sound like legalese, not like something an honest citizen would write about his/her situation.
What’s more, the top credit repair experts that I interviewed and have worked with do not use those letters. The book is called Repair Your Credit Like the Pros.
Credit repair is a big topic and it is both simple and complex. It’s too much for a blog post, but I hope that using common sense will make sense to you for your situation. For more detailed instruction, please see the book.
For the record, I do not do credit repair, nor do I give credit advice by email. I am a licensed mortgage loan officer in California and Washington; and as all mortgage professionals do, I have helped my clients get approved for a home loan.
Today is Good Friday, which I think of as Sad Friday. I got to thinking about what that means and debts people owe. How can a person handle a debt that is too great for them to pay?
One choice is bankruptcy. There is Chapter 7 that wipes out all debts except for taxes, government debt (student loans), and child support–pending court approval. There is Chapter 13 which is a repayment plan set up by the court to satisfy the debts.
Another choice is to work out a settlement with a payment plan with the creditor. Even the IRS will grant a payment plan, and when a person has been making faithful payments for a year, he or she can qualify for a mortgage to buy a house.
But what about the debt that is so great, it can never be repaid, can never be declared bankruptcy on, cannot qualify for a repayment plan? The debt that weighs on a person’s soul, because the debt is actually sin against God?
That is the miracle of Good Friday. Jesus Christ, the only Son of God, stepped up and willing paid that debt for you, for me, for all humankind–by giving His own innocent life.
I know it seems odd, maybe even unfair, that Jesus should pay the debt of sin for you and me. But that is what happened, as verified by holy Scripture. Now to “seal the deal,” we have to accept that payment. We have to acknowledge our debt, our sin, and accept that Jesus Christ paid the price. In turn, we pledge to make him Lord of our life.
It’s a wonderful trade-off! We get forgiven and we get a Savior to lead and guide us through life.
So although Jesus dying on the cross is sad, it is also a day of goodness and hope — especially when Jesus rose from the grave in victory on what we call Easter morning!
Thank you for reading my heart-felt post today.